by Melissa Lupo
Rave Rage Ritual
Teen angst, elevated.
A fascination with deviant youth subcultures, Grinko has once again returned to a familiar theme.
The structure and intention in the overall collection was clear. There is a focus on deviance but it is not to be confused with chaos. Grinko explores the importance of individuality in a homogeneous and anonymous world.
A deconstruction of traditional tailoring can be symbolic for the deconstruction of society’s expectations, bending gender and reinforcing sexual independence. Laser cut jersey, women’s trouser suits with removable parts, and waterproof materials inspire a techno metropolitan glamour.
Style direction that evokes the irreverent 80’s and 90’s rave culture and visual cues like laser projection continue the mood carried out by the blue denim hues, natural nuances, colors of the earth, pinks, and stark black and white. A futuristic tone is set with stacked boots, underwear briefs pulled high, and artifact-like accessories.
Grinko demonstrated dedication to the exploration of a theme across seasons and presented a coherent collection that makes us curious to keep watching how this provocative designer continues to evolve.